Six narrow alleys, more than 200 bars, most seating four to six people. Golden Gai looks intimidating on purpose — but the fear that every door hides a rude surprise is mostly myth.
Look for the signs. A bar with an English menu taped to the door, a small cover charge posted (usually 500–1500 yen), and lights on upstairs wants your business. No sign, a closed curtain, a regulars-only vibe: keep walking, no offence taken.
Order one drink, talk to the person beside you, pay the cover without arguing. That's the whole etiquette. Do it once and the next door opens a lot easier.